EZ Home Fix

Easy home repair maintenance tips and tutorials

How To Clean Sliding Glass Mirror Doors Properly

Posted on April 24, 2016 by admin

We are asked “How To Clean Sliding Glass Mirror Doors Properly” at least once a week, so here is the correct way to clean the glass so you do not ruin it. Many people have sliding glass doors in their bedrooms for their closets and at the main entrance to their home, again for their coat closets as it looks very nice, but most are cleaning these glass mirror doors incorrectly! There is a big difference between mirrored glass and the type of glass as used in your home windows. Cleaning your glass windows is much easier than cleaning your mirrored glass doors as they Will not get ruined nearly as easy as a mirrored glass. To clean your mirrored glass you must not use the same products as what is used for regular glass windows.

How To Clean Glass Mirrored Door Dont’s:

Do not clean glass mirrored doors with glass cleaning products such as Windex as it is much to strong and will actually leave streak marks that you may never be able to remove.
Do not clean glass mirrored doors with commonly used white vinegar and water solution, this again is much to strong and will eventually ruin your mirrored glass.
Do not use any type of abrasive rag or sponge when cleaning your mirrored glass, it is not able to with stand this as is regular window glass. Mirrored glass is very thin and will wear away leaving a black spot if rubbed with any type of abrasive rag, sponge etc.

How To Clean Glass Mirrored Door Do’s:

To properly clean mirrored glass you ONLY use warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap such as Dawn. You wipe down the whole glass using a damped soft rag, then rise off with clean water. Now using newspaper wipe the the whole glass down again, then wipe dry with a lint free cloth.
If the glass is not to dirty, you could just wipe down with a lightly damped newspaper, then wipe dry with a lint free cloth.

If you do not clean clean your glass mirrors properly, it will only be a short time of using the incorrect cleaning methods to completely ruin your mirrored glass. Many people including myself have found this out the hard way. I find it very strange that most of the companies selling the glass mirrored sliding doors for closets etc, do not give cleaning instructions along with the product, so most people tend to go ahead and clean it as would regular window glass.

How To Easily Improve Toilet Flush Power

Posted on January 16, 2016 by admin

When it comes down to how your toilet is flushing. More powerful toilet flush is always a better thing to have. We’ll tell you how to get a more powerful flush. We have all been there a few times. You flush your toilet and it seems to be having a hard time flushing, even small sessions. The flush of most all toilets over time will get worse and worse. You need to apply a few easy tips to keep your toilet flushing like new.

The reason your toilet loses it’s flushing power is due to a few things. The first thing is your toilet tank water level. Make sure to adjust the water lever in the tank to the line inside the tank. The next thing to check is if your toilet is slightly plugged. To check this, just take a gallon or so of water in a pale and dump it into your toilet bowl. If the toilet flushes fine, there is no clog and we can move on to the next step.

If all is fine with the last two steps. Your flushing power loss is most likely due to buildup inside the toilet. To remove this water deposit buildup. You need to remove the toilet tank lid and find the over-flow tube. It will be the tube with a hose clipped to the inside of the tube. Next you pour a cup or two of white vinegar down that over-flow tube. Let it sit for at least two hours before flushing the toilet. If can, it would be even better to let sit over night to really work it’s self in. This will loosen the junk inside your toilet.

Toilet Over Flow Tube

Use White Vinegar And Dawn Dish Detergent To Flush Out Junk From Your Toilet

After you do the white vinegar procedure, you now will move on to the next step to improve your toilets flushing power. For this step you will need some Dawn liquid dish detergent. You will squeeze a medium amount of detergent into the toilet tank over-flow tube. Just like you did with the white vinegar. You will let this detergent sit and work it’s way through your toilet for at least two hours before flushing your toilet. The detergent loosens up even more built up junk inside your toilet. Then will flush it out when you flush your toilet again.

You may need to do this procedure a few times to really clean the toilet out good. Then after that do the procedure as a weekly or monthly routine toilet maintenance.

This very simple easy to do procedure to improve your toilets flushing power can save you from big expenses from toilet repairs. It will keep your toilet working like new for many years to come and the cost to apply these procedures is very inexpensive.

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How To Install A Toilet Properly

Posted on December 31, 2015 by admin

If you are installing a toilet you need to install a toilet properly to do the job right the first time. If you are installing a new toilet in a new location, you will need to run a water supply line and a drainpipe and it must be connected to the drain/vent system in compliance with building code. Even if you are just replacing an existing toilet, you should really replace the water supply tubing as well as part of a total package. Now for the install.

Step 1 remove your toilet.

Step 2 after removing your toilet, is to determine which flange you will need to use.

If you are just reusing the old flange, it is a good idea to replace the 3/16-inch flange bolts with new ones. Purchase two 3 1/2-inch-long closet bolts at your local home center, home depot, home hardware store. If you are replacing the flange, you must screw it into a wooden floor. The self-tapping type concrete screws are used for concrete floor.

Step 3 placing the wax ring on bottom of toilet.

Place the wax ring on the bottom of toilet. This wax ring can vary in size with the size of the flange. Be sure to purchase the proper size wax ring. A 3 inch neck will fit a 3 inch closet elbow, and a 4 inch neck will fit a 4 inch closet elbow. If the closet elbow is 4 inches, but the neck is 3 inches in diameter, just purchase a 4×3 reducer.

Step 4 setting the toilet bowl down onto the flange.

Straddle the toilet bowl and lift it straight up by using your legs, not your back. Toilets can be heavy, so if needed get some help. Now set the toilet directly over the anchor bolts (a second person is nice to have to guide the bolts into the holes) now sit on the toilet, rocking it back and forth, this will seat the wax ring.

Step 5 tighten up the nuts connecting toilet to the flange

Tighten the nuts down on both anchor bolts until they are about hand tight. Shim as necessary to level out. Use an adjustable wrench and moving from one side of the toilet to the other, alternate the tightening of each nut about one half turn at a time until they are snug. Do Not Over-tighten!

If needed use a small hacksaw to cut the flange bolt off so only 1/4 to 1/2 inch thread extends above the nut. This will allow flange bolt cap to fit snugly. Most bolts do have snap-offs every 1/2 inch or so, but you should still cut through so you do not bend the bolt.

Install the bolt cap. Some types of caps will snap over the bolt and others caps must be filled with plumber’s putty and seated over the anchor bolt.

Step 6 install the tank anchor bolts.

Set in the tank anchor bolts as shown. Place the tank anchor bolts in the holes of the tank, this will help guide the tank onto the bowl.

Step 7 place the tank on top of the toilet bowl.

Lift the tank up and place it on top of the bowl. You may or may not need some help with this. Guide the tank bolts into the corresponding holes on the toilet bowl to seat them.

Step 8 tighten the toilet tank bolts.

Holding an adjustable wrench over the tank bolt nut while you tighten the bolt with a screwdriver is the easiest way to do this. Do not over-tighten as you can crack either the tank or the toilet bowl.

Step 9 installing the water shut off valve.

You set the valve over the compression ring, then draw the nut to it. Tighten the nut until about hand tight. Then use two adjustable wrenches to tighten until snug, one to hold back the valve in place and the other to tighten the compression nut.

Step 10 measure and cut water supply tube.

Holding the tank supply tube so it is in place. Let the extra pipe extend a little past the shutoff valve. Now mark the pipe for cutting. You must leave enough pipe so it will fit snugly inside the shutoff valve outlet. Now cut the supply pipe with a tubing cutter tool. If your think your plumbing skills are poor, you can use/purchase a braided supply line instead of the solid supply line shown above. Be sure your supply line and water shutoff valve are compatible before leaving the plumbing supply store.

Step 11 connect the water supply pipe to the toilet tank.

Seat the end of the supply pipe against the toilet tank. Draw up the tank nut until hand tighten or until snug. Slide the compression nut over the other end, then place the compression ring over the end of the pipe. Then seat the end in the outlet of the shutoff valve.

Step 12 tighten the compression nut to water supply valve.

Using an adjustable wrench, carefully tighten the compression nut, but do not over-tighten just nice and snug. Turn the water supply on and check for leaks along the whole supply line, by visually and by touching. Flush the toilet and check again for leaks around the base of the tank. If there is a leak found, tighten the connections one half turn re-check. Now to know how to replace a toilet.

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Home Spring Maintenance To Do List

Posted on May 15, 2015 by admin

Yearly home spring maintenance is needed whether your home is brand new or an existing home. Home Maintenance is very essential to keeping your home in great condition for many years to come. It can be kind of tricky trying to remember what to do and when to do it. No problem, we will inform you on what to do and when to do it. You then can also relay this home maintenance care to do list to your friends and family, so they also can maintain their homes properly as well.

Spring Home Maintenance Checklist:

Paint or touch up your home’s exterior as needed.
Clear your gutters of all debris.
Wash your windows and screens.
Get your roof and chimney checked or inspected for problems.
Test your homes smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, replace batteries if needed.

Summer Home Maintenance Checklist:

Prepare your central air conditioners or install window air conditioners.
Clean and or replace your HVAC system filters.
Open up your crawl space vents.
Drain or flush your homes water heater.
Look your home over for problems such as repairs needed, insect problems, termite damage etc.

Fall Home Maintenance Checklist:

Clean your gutters of all debris before the weather changes
Time to inspect your homes roof.
Now is the time to have your home furnace inspected and repaired if needed. You do not need to be without heat in the cold winter months coming.
Time again to test and check your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors, change the batteries if needed.
Check for leaks or drafts around windows and doors, repair as needed.

Winter Home Maintenance Checklist:

If your home has central air conditioning you should cover it to protect it in the winter.
Now is the time to change your furnace filter, you will be putting a strain on your furnace running through the winter, clean filters reduce strain and keep your home less dusty.
Winter is a good time to close any crawl space vents.
Winter is also a good time to clean your kitchen appliances.
Clean your drains so all is flowing smooth.
Turn your outside water taps off (drain them before turning the water off).
Drain or flush your homes water heater.

By staying on top of your home maintenance it will ensure that your home and it’s systems will work well when needed. We all know that home repairs are very costly especially if they are let go and not caught in time. Staying up with your maintenance will help correct issues before they result in taking a nice chunk out of your savings. Also if you plan to ever sell your home down the road, most home buyers want a home that is well kept, which will also help to obtain the selling price you are asking.

Your home is most likely the largest investment you will have in your life, so make sure to do the proper home maintenance to keep it in tip top shape, you will be proud of yourself and your home!

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How To Easily Remove Oil Stains From Asphalt

Posted on August 15, 2014 by admin

Cleaning oil stains from Concrete and especially Asphalt driveways or parking pads, can be very hard to do if you do not know what works. There are many products available at various hardware stores especially made to clean oil stains from concrete and asphalt, some of these stain removing products work ok and some not so good at all. It would cost you a nice chunk of change to try two, three or more of these products and in the end, you may still have the oils stains that you started out with.

I have tried at least five of these stain removal products and can tell you first hand, the oil stains on the concrete surfaces are much easier to remove with the store bought products than on asphalt surfaces. So if you are trying to remove oil stains from your concrete driveway or park pad, then yes, go ahead and use a store bought oil stain removal product. If you are trying to remove an oil stain from your asphalt driveway or park pad, I would suggest not wasting your money on store bought cleaners. The reason being is asphalt is very porous and it gets down in deep and simply does not get removed easily especially if the oil stain is over 24 hours old.

So what do you try next? Some say use clay based kitty litter which will absorb the stain in a few days if left on top of the stain. Sorry been there done that, stain was still highly visible. You can also forget about using vinegar, sand, bleach, hot water, dish detergent and so on, they all barely even make a dent in removing the oil stain. This is where I was at when I had tried everything I found that was supposed to remove these nasty sunk in deep oil stains, then I thought I will try one last procedure which was using plain old baking soda and to my amazement it actually worked!

Here is how I used the baking soda procedure to remove a large oil stain the professional products could not do.

Wipe up the stain thoroughly with a couple of rags until cannot get anymore off.
Pour lots of baking soda all over the oil stain and let sit for one hour.
Now with a very stiff bristle brush (not steel wire brush) work the dry baking soda into the oil stained area going in circles, up and down and back and forth for a good while.
Now pour a little water over the baking soda and mix into the baking soda and continue scrubbing the stain with your stiff bristle brush for another good length of time.
Now using a garden hose or just a bucket of water and a bib sponge wipe up the stained area and cleanse away the baking soda, then let dry. If have white outlines when dry from the baking soda, you will need to hose away more thoroughly.

You may have to do this procedure a few times to get rid of the oil stain completely, but at least it works and is very cheap to do. Concrete oil stains are hard to remove and Asphalt oil stains are extremely hard if you did not know what to do.

How To Easily Remove Toilet Bowl Stains

Posted on August 12, 2014 by admin

Removing those nasty toilet bowl stains can be very upsetting and hard to do, especially if you do not know what really works. If you are like me, you have tried many different types of cleaning methods, most of which never seem to get rid of those pesky toilet rings. Those rings are actually caused by hard water deposits, if you slide your fingernail across them you will fell most of the time feel a ridge or buildup. These ridges or lines cannot usually be removed by normal toilet bowl cleaning products, you must use more extreme procedures to fully remove.

Items You Will Need To Correctly Remove Toilet Bowl Stains:

A pair of rubber gloves.
Paper towels or rags.
White Vinegar.
Baking Soda.
Emery Cloth.
Toilet bowl scrub brush.

You start by turning off the water supply to the toilet, then flush toilet to remove water from the bowl area. Remove toilet tank lid and find the over flow tube (tube that a hose is attached to that flows water into the tube) Pour about one cup of white vinegar into that tube. The vinegar will flow through the insides of the toilet bowl cleaning, loosening and disinfecting and finally flow out into bowl area, just let it sit there for a while as you continue.

Next you pour some vinegar into the toilet bowl, about one cup or so. Now take your baking soda and pour about half of the box into the toilet bowl along with the vinegar, it will foam up fast. Take your toilet bowl brush and scrub whole inside of bowl, make sure to get under and scrub the bowl area where the small tank holes are located. After the scrubbing is completed and the foam has died down, check for toilet rings and ridges. Any toilet ring or ridges still left on bowl will have to be lightly scrubbed off with the emery cloth. Some people recommend using fine sandpaper, but from my experience the emery cloth works better and is easier on the bowl surface.

Once all rings and ridges are removed, you can turn on the toilet water supply until toilet tank is full again, then flush toilet and wipe all toilet area clean with your paper towels and your easy toilet bowl stain removal is complete. You may at this time add an automatic toilet bowl cleaner to the inside of your toilet bowl, this will help prevent toilet stains from building up as fast. You now know how to get clean toilet bowl much easier!

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How To Clean Your Furnace Yourself

Posted on June 26, 2014 by admin

Cleaning your home furnace should be done once a year and you can do this job easily yourself to save money. Most furnace repair companies charge from one hundred to two hundred dollars to clean your furnace, so if you do it yourself, you can save money and do a better job to boot. To clean your own furnace only takes about one to two hours depending on how dirty your furnace is to begin with. You will need to get together a list of items needed before you begin the actual job.

Clean Your Furnace Items needed List:

Vacuum Cleaner with longer extension end.
Lots of cotton rags, lint free kind.
Screw driver with multiple heads and or small socket and ratchet set.
Tooth Brush to clean in tight places to loosen dirt to be wiped or vacuumed up.
Small flash light to see into areas as corners better.
Pen and paper to takes notes on possible wiring removed.
Gloves as could be sharp edges.

Now that you are ready to go ahead with cleaning your furnace, you start off by doing these simple steps.

Turn off electrical to the furnace, at power box or may have an off on switch usually located close to furnace.
Turn the gas to the furnace off, follow directions on your furnace.
Now remove the furnace front access panels, one piece or the usually two pieces, top and bottom.
Turn the gas valve switch to the off position.

Note: You should have directions right on your furnace how to turn off and turn on your furnace, always follow those directions.

You will now need to remove the furnace blower motor to get access to clean the blower motor wheel and in and around the motor itself. You first start by removing about four screws that hold the motor in place. When those four screws located usually two on the top and two underneath are removed you can just slide or pull the blower motor right out of the furnace case. There may a few electrical connections you may have to remove to pull the motor out, just be sure to write down the location of each wire so can put them back correctly.

When you have pulled the blower motor out you can now clean the blower wheel of grime with a tooth brush, then wipe off or vacuum up the loose material. Then with a damp rag wipe the blower motor outside casting so is free of dirt which can cause over-heating. Avoid wiping any electrical connections. Now clean the area that the blower motor was removed from by wiping, vacuuming etc. Then replace the blower motor back into the furnace casing exactly as it was before removal, including hooking up any electrical wiring.

You now can finish by cleaning the top portion of furnace where the burners, gas valve etc are located. Vacuum and wipe clean all areas being careful not to hit any wiring. Also unless you know what you are doing, avoid cleaning the burners, pilot light and so on as you may cause a problem if not experienced. After done cleaning If re-starting the furnace turn the electrical back on and re-start furnace as directed on your furnace. When all done put your furnace front access panels back on.

Now would be a good time to replace your furnace filter with a new filter. Always use a good quality filter do not cheap out in this area. I recommend 3M furnace filters as have never had a problem and they filter great. To finish up your furnace cleaning, wipe down the outside of the furnace and vacuum dust and dirt around the floor area of your furnace.

If you take the time to do some furnace service yourself, as in a yearly furnace cleaning, you can save yourself some money and know the job was done good.

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How To Install or Replace A Toilet Correctly

Posted on April 29, 2014 by admin

Before starting to install a new toilet or replace your old toilet, you must know how to do it correctly. Start off you must shut off the water valve located next to your toilet and if replacing your old toilet flush your toilet, so all water is gone and no water will fill up the tank again. You will then have to clean out he excess water inside your toilet tank. Now remove the old toilet, take the tank off off the bowl, then bowl of the floor, then plug the hole in floor with rags.

Materials And Tools You Will Need For The Project:

Two-piece Toilet
Plumber’s Putty (if needed)
Supply Tube (If Needed)
Toilet To Floor Bolts (New Ones)
Toilet Seat
Flange (if needed)
Wax Ring Replacement
Shut Off Valve
Screwdriver Set
Mini Hacksaw
Tubing Cutter (If Needed)
Adjustable Wrenches

DETERMINE WHAT FLANGE YOU NEED:

If you are going to reuse the old flange, it is a good idea to replace the 3/16-inch flange bolts as they are cheap. If you are going to replace the flange, it must be screwed into a wooden floor. If replacing a flange on concrete floor use Self-tapping concrete screws for concrete.

2. PLACE WAX RING ON TOILET:

Place the wax ring on the bottom part of your toilet. The actual wax ring size will vary with the size of the flange you have. You must be sure to purchase the proper size. A 3 inch neck will fit a 3 inch closet elbow, a 4 inch neck will fit a 4 inch closet elbow. If the closet elbow is 4 inches and the neck is 3 inches in diameter, purchase a 4×3 reducer.

3. SET THE TOILET BOWL:

Straddle the toilet bowl and lift up using your legs, not your back. Set the toilet slowly over the anchor bolts, then sit on the toilet, rocking it back and forth to seat the wax ring in place. You may need another person to guide you when setting the toilet over the anchor bolts.

4. TIGHTEN THE NUTS.

Tighten the nuts down on both anchor bolts until they are about hand-tight. Use an adjustable wrench or socket and move from one side of the toilet to the other, alternate the tightening of each nut about a half-turn each time until it is snug. Don’t over-tighten these nuts.

5. CUT FLANGE BOLT TO SIZEINSTALL THE BOLT CAP:

Using a mini hacksaw, cut the flange bolts so only 1/4 to 1/2 inch extends above the bolt. This is done so the cap cover will fit over firmly. Most bolts will have snap-offs about every 1/2 inch or so, you should still cut through the bolt, so you don’t bend the bolt. Some types of caps will snap over the bolt while some have to be filled with plumber’s putty and seated over the anchor bolt so it stays in place.

6. SET THE TANK ANCHOR BOLTS:

Put the tank anchor bolts in the holes of the tank, this will help guide the tank onto the bowl easier. Lift the tank, place it over the bowl, then guide the tank bolts into the corresponding holes on the toilet bowl.

7. TIGHTEN THE TANK BOLTS:

Using an adjustable wrench, hold the wrench over the tank bolt nut while you tighten the top bolt with a screwdriver. Do not over-tighten, you do not want to crack the tank or the toilet bowl.

8. CONNECT SUPPLY PIPE TO THE TANK:

Put the water supply line back on by hand-tighten until snug. Slide the compression nut over the other end, and then place the compression ring over the end of the pipe. Seat the end in the outlet of the shutoff valve. Now you can tighten all up re-open the water valve to fill the toilet tank full, then check for leaks, done!

Some times you may need to replace the supply pipe with another pipe to fit or a flexible universal connection. All of the tools and material including the replacement toilet can be found at stores such as Home Depot, Lowe’s, Home Hardware etc. You now know the basics on how to install or replace a toilet correctly! You can watch a toilet replacement video HERE.

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How To Repair Cracks In Concrete Floors

Posted on June 14, 2013 by admin

When a good concrete floor goes bad it can happen in many ways, as in developing small or large cracks, pitting or becoming uneven, but there is an easy fix. The causes of these cracks vary and usually have something to do with the original mixture of concrete or a shifting surface below the concrete.

It is easy to fix the small cracks in concrete with a crack sealer in a ready to mix material that you just trowel in place. It will come in either a caulk-like form or a liquid form, use the liquid form on floors and pads and the caulk-like form on the walls.

Repairing Small Cracks

Clean out the crack with a wire brush to remove dirt and loose stones. Then wash the crack with a concrete cleaner.
Let the surface dry completely. If the crack is deep and it’s on the floor fill it partially with sand leaving an opening 1/4 – 1/2 inch deep. Then pour in the crack sealer until it forms a layer 1/4 inch deep, let dry over night and then apply another layer, repeat until surface is flush with the floor. (if using caulk, smooth with a putty knife)

Repairing Large Cracks

Prep floor the same as for small cracks.
On crack about 1/2 inch deep trowel in some vinyl concrete patch mixed according to the direction on bag or pail. Trowel a 1/4 layer into the crack and if more layers are needed, let patch dry for several days before applying another layer. Trowel the final layer flush with the surface and smooth.

Material for concrete patch repair is readily available at place as Home Hardware, Lowe’s, Home Depot, and so on. This is definitely something you yourself can do quit easily, it’s a simple home fix as long as the crack is not to large.

Paint Brushes or Paint Rollers which to use?

Posted on April 17, 2013 by admin

You may wonder whether you’ll need to use a paint brush or paint roller, to do the job correctly! The answer is you will most likely need both. The paint brush will handle narrow spaces or cut in’s. You would use a brush for detailed work and for trim. The paint roller can apply paint at least three times faster than even the widest brush, so you will need it for speed. The beveled ends of a roller cannot lay down a sharp line of paint, but this prevents roller and overlap marks as well. Use a roller for large flat area’s such as walls, floors and ceilings. So you see you need both the basic brush and roller.

There are two types of bristle brushes:

Natural Brushes: Usually hog bristles used for solvent-base finishes.
Synthetic Brushes: Which are nylon or polyester for water-base finishes.

Using the correct type of brush is very important because natural bristles can swell in water-base paint resulting in poor application. With proper care and cleaning your paint brushes will last for years.There are also foam paint brushes that work well when applying smooth finishes to small area’s and they are very low cost.

Paint Rollers: The basic paint roller is a handle with a wire cage and threaded base, a roller with a nap fits over the cage. Always invest in the best roller you can afford and it will last for years. When buying a paint roller look for:

A heavy frame with minimum flex under pressure.
Nylon bearing that spin easily.
A comfortable grip.
A cage with at least five wires and an anti-slip device to keep the roller in place.

Roller Covers: Buy a quality roller cover (the part that applies the paint) with the correct nap thickness. Most jobs require a roller with either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch nap. Note, bargain roller covers with paper cores break down quickly and cannot be reused. Resin cores last longer and can be reused. When buying a roller cover look for:

A durable resin core.
Beveled ends to avoid leaving beads of paint along the edges.
Seams that you cannot feel through the nap.
Heavy, uniform nap that sheds little lint.